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Friday, 8 June 2018

20 Skincare Mistakes That Are Damaging Your Face


Most of us have a skincare routine that we stick to out of habit — it's all about a repetition of steps you have to do day in and day out. But what if you are you repeating the wrong steps? Here are 20 of the top skincare habits we're all guilty of.

Over Exfoliating
It’s tempting but highly damaging in the long term to buff away too much of your top skin layer. “You’re actually removing the protective barrier that your skin has,” says Dr. Ben Johnson, founder of Osmosis Pur Medical Skincare. “Once removed, your skin is exposed to environmental toxins and sun damage, causing aging.” Exfoliate two to three times a week, max.

Dermalogica Gentle Cream Exfoliant, $28.05, Amazon

Falling Into Bed With Your Makeup On
You can be forgiven for that one drunken night, but it can’t be a habit. “Not removing your makeup for the night clogs your pore and oil glands,” says Dennis Gross MD. “When makeup becomes impacted in pores, it makes them appear larger. Once your collagen levels decline, the pore won’t snap back as easily once it has been enlarged.” Plus, he says, it leads to inflammation.

Simple Cleansing Facial Wipes, $3.69, Amazon

Not Cleansing Properly
You may be diligent in makeup removal, but are you using the right cleanser to put your skin in optimal condition for overnight renewal? “Look for a cleanser that contains the right ingredients,” says Gross. “Things like antioxidants for protection, salicylic acid to help clear your pores, and witch hazel, which acts as a natural astringent.”

CeraVe Renewing SA Cleanser, $10.19, Amazon

Sleeping On A Cotton Pillowcase
Better yet, switch to silk. “Satin or silk minimizes permanent creases and complexion issues. Persistently pressing your face into a pillowcase causes trauma to the skin. Over time, this trauma aggravated by the friction of cotton can cause permanent creases as our collagen breaks down,” says Dr. Gross.

Alaska Bear Natural Silk Pillowcase, $19.99, Amazon

Not Wearing Sunscreen Every Day
It’s not just for the beach: The best protection against skin aging is a good sunscreen defense. “Wear it everyday, and look for one that has an SPF of 30 or higher,” says Florida-based dermatologist Marisa Potter. “It should also be broad spectrum, which means it helps to shield you from UVA rays (as well as UVB) which are known to cause photoaging of the skin.” She also advises applying sunblock to your chest and the top of your hands daily as well.

Neutrogena Clear Face Sunblock Lotion, $9.97, Amazon

Exfoliating Away Oily Skin
Not possible, says Florida-based esthetician Crystal McElroy. “People think that if they exfoliate with different scrubs they’ll eliminate issues like oily skin, but when your skin is over-scrubbed, the oil production actually speeds up because skin’s natural repair mechanism is put into overdrive.” Again, two to three times per week is sufficient for exfoliation.

Picking At Your Face
Most of us know we shouldn’t do this, but lots of us do it anyway. “Anytime you pick or pull at your skin, you are causing damage and creating irritation, scars and wrinkles,” says Johnson. Just. Stop.

Using Dirty Makeup Brushes
Yes, it’s doing more damage to your skin than you think. “Invest in a brush cleaner, especially for your foundation brush,” says McElroy. We love Sephora Daily Brush Cleaner. “Keeping your brushes clean every day will ensure no dirt and old makeup buildup is going to effect your skin.”

Sephora Daily Brush Cleaner, $8.50, Sephora.com

Not Applying Products In The Correct order
“One of the keys to maximizing the benefits of the products in your regimen is to apply products with a thinner consistency before the thicker, creamier ones — no matter what their active ingredients are,” says Gross. “Products with heavier consistencies can block lighter weight ones from penetrating the skin and doing their job.

Over-Using All Of Your Products (Not Just Exfoliants)
Just like over-scrubbing, over-using your cleanser or retinol products also compromises your skin’s natural protective oil. “It isn’t necessary to cleanse in the morning and the evening,” says esthetician Andrea DeSimone. “The evening cleanse is crucial to removing dirt, oil and makeup, but during sleep, the oils that your skin produces are hydrating and balancing, so they shouldn’t be washed away in the morning.” She suggests buffing skin with a wet cotton washcloth in the morning instead of another round of cleanser.

Popping Pimples
We know you'll do it sometimes, but it’s still a bad idea for your skin overall. “When a dermatologist drains a pimple they apply downward pressure,” says Dr. Gross, “but when people try to do it themselves, they squeeze from the side which ends up backfiring because it causes infection to go down deeper into the pore.” He advises washing your face with a clean washcloth. If the pimple is ready to pop, this is all the pressure needed to drain it.

Sleeping With Your Hair Out At Night
“Many people have perimeter and forehead breakouts due to the oil and hair care products that they use — especially those with long hair or bangs,” DeSimone notes. “Pull all of your hair off your face and clip your bangs back before bed.”

Not Washing Your Sheets & Pillowcases Frequently Enough
“Pillowcases accumulate a buildup of reside from things like conditioner and scalp oil that can clog your pores on your face over time,” says Gross. “You should change your pillow case at least once a week or more if you are more acne-prone. Wash in hot water to kill off dust mites that can cause allergies.”

Not Getting Enough Sleep
“Getting a good night’s sleep helps your skin to look its best,” explains Dr. Gross. “When the skin is getting less than optimum rest, it becomes dull and pale with under-eye circles. A lack of sleep can be so stressful that it can cause our bodies — including our skin — to generate free radicals.”

Drying Out Your Skin
“We all break out,” says California-based dermatologist Howard Murad. “People with acne or the occasional pimple think they need to dry out their skin, so choose products that are too harsh — which can cause further irritation than the breakout itself.” He says to look for a treatment that soothes while it targets your skin concern, and to always finish with a hydrating moisturizer.

Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel, $16.14, Amazon

Eating a Bad Diet
In Dr. Gross’ words, what is good for the heart is good for the skin. “I recommend the tri-color salad approach,” he says. “Make sure they are a bunch of colors — red cabbage, green lettuce etc. Eat veggies that have a lot of color. Nature color codes them for us. The more colors you eat, the better.”

Not Moisturizing Oily Skin
Regardless of your skin type, it’s imperative that you moisturize daily and apply a heavier cream at night, says Dr. Murad. “It’s a common misconception that those with an oily skin should avoid moisturizers. In fact, it’s vital that even oily skin gets moisture because without it, skin will overcompensate for the loss of hydration [with more oil], leading to breakouts and an uneven skin texture.” Take note: Moisturizing adds water to the skin, not oil.

Olay Complete All Day Moisturizer, $17.88, Amazon

Olay Regenerist Night Recovery Cream, $12.40, Amazon

Loading Your Skin Up With Products At Night
Less is more, says McElroy. “After a normal cleansing routine, applying two or three different serums for a variety of concerns isn’t effective at all. All topical products are effective up to 0.3% absorption into skin so the more you add the less effective each of them is.” If you have multiple skin needs, alternate your serums.

Taking Too-Hot Showers
It’s tempting … but problematic for your skin. “Hot showers can strip your skin of essential moisture and healthy oils. I recommend taking warm, not hot showers,” says Dr. Murad.

Not Knowing What You Are Putting on Your Skin
How can you ever truly enjoy great skin if you don’t educate yourself on what you are putting on it? “Read up on ingredients and learn about what you are applying on yourself,” says McElroy. “Remember — price doesn’t always determine quality.”

Disaster DIY: Lemons in Skincare


Hi, friends. Today's post is going to be part-rant and part-informational post. If you like at least one of those things, keep reading.

I have a gripe to pick with Pinterest. Sure, there are a lot of pretty nail art pictures and hair tutorials, and I'm all about that life, but the Internet is a scary place. We know not everything you read is true (like how not everything you watch on TV is true... RIGHT?). For some reason, misinformed people like to go around spreading what I like to call "beauty rumors" backed up by incorrect facts.

One of the myths that I see most often out on the ol' interwebs is the benefit of using lemons in skincare. Now I'm not talking about the use of citrus in formulated skincare products (which I have mixed feelings about, and is a post for another day), but people literally rubbing lemons and lemon juice on their faces. Just searching "lemons in beauty" almost sent me into anaphylactic shock. (If you don't know what I'm talking about, click here, here, or here, but don't say I didn't warn you.) There are SO many reasons why you should ignore all of those pretty pictures and just scroll past them, and I'm going to share some of them with you today.

Benefits of Lemons in Skincare:
I think the reason that these horrible beauty rumors are spreading is because lemons (and lemon juice) do contain some good ingredients for typical "issues" that people have with their skin. The big benefits are:
Vitamin C (aka ascorbic acid) - Great for lightening up dark spots and hyper-pigmentation
Niacin (Vitamin B3) - Anti-inflammatory that also helps even pigmentation
Citric Acid - This is a natural AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid), which is a great chemical exfoliant. This particular exfoliant is used for removing the top (often dead/dry) layer of skin to reveal new, fresh skin underneath. This can take away that "dull" look and thereby "brighten" skin. (Keep in mind that this ingredient also has some hefty bad points, but more on that later).

The Disadvantages of Lemons in Skincare:
There are a lot more cons than pros in this case. I'm not going to talk about every single one (or we'll be here all day), but I'll mention the most important ones.

#1: The pH is way too low

Lemons (and citrus in general) are highly acidic, with a natural pH level of 2. Skin has an average pH level of 4.45 to 5.56. I know that doesn't sound like a lot, but it actually makes a huge difference. Messing with the pH of your skin like that can do a bunch of different things, from damaging new skin cell production to irritating the skin. Citric acid can be a bit too strong for our faces. Think of it as though your skin has constant acid reflux.

#2: They're phototoxic

I know when we think of lemons, we don't think of them being toxic, but our faces believe otherwise. Lemons and the sun don't mix, meaning that irritation can increase tenfold, even to the point of potentially causing a chemical burn. This can cause something called phytophotodermatitis (fi-toh-foh-toh-dur-mah-ty-tis), or PPD, which basically means that repeated use can actually worsen hyper-pigmentation and brown/sun spots, as well as cause new spots. Talk about being counter-productive!

#3: There are other ingredients in lemons/lemon juice that are bad for you

Vitamin C is great and all, but there are plenty of other harmful ingredients like furanocoumarins and psoralens that make using lemons a bad idea. Furanocoumarin, also found in grapefruit, is one of the ingredients that causes the phototoxic reaction when your skin is exposed to the sun (see #2). Psoralens are also found in figs, and can contribute to the development of photodermatitis. Topical application can contact dermatits, which is really uncomfortable and gives your skin a red, itchy rash, something you commonly find with poison ivy.

#4: Not all lemons are the same

Not all lemons are created equal. Lemons are grown in different places, at different times of the year, are picked at different times, are used at different times in their ripening process, etc, What if it was kept in the refrigerator for awhile? These can all change a lemon, so even if using lemons was good for your skin, which one would you use?

#5: They're highly fragrant

As I like to talk about often, strong fragrances (even natural ones) have the possibility of ruining skin cell and collagen production. That's not to say this will happen to every person, or that you will simply stop producing skin, but causing internal irritation could make the cell turnover process take longer. We typically want as high of a skin cell turnover rate as possible--that's why people use Retinol: to get the top layers of skin off and reveal the under layer of fresh, beautiful skin. You might not see the effects on your skin in the mirror, unless your skin is extremely sensitive (or you suffer from rosacea or eczema). However, people in white lab coats with the access to microscopes have studied this stuff. It's a real thing.

Things to Remember:

This isn't to say that use of lemons/lemon juice in every single skincare product is bad. Some companies have the power to use processes that can remove the phototoxic elements to make them safe for daytime use. However, most of us don't exactly have that kind of technology or how-to at home to do with the lemons we buy in the supermarket. Also, as of right now, I don't know if there's a way of knowing which companies have made their products safe to use and which have not, so that's something to think about. Still, even if you only lemon-based products at night, there's still the high fragrance to consider and the possible skin cell death. However, I can't speak for every single person out there as to whether or not it will severely impact you, because I'm just one beauty buff and there are so many of you!

Also, keep in mind that the dangers are worse for leave-on products than things you use for a minute then rinse off. That's not to say you can rub your face with a lemon, rinse it off, then go outside (why would you even do that, really?). But the negative effects might not be as bad, since the product doesn't have time to sink into your skin.

Alternatives

We still want to get the benefits that lemon juice provides, just without all of the bad stuff. Here are some options for you:

Chemical Exfoliants: If you're looking for a chemical exfoliant, check out Paula's Choice. Her formulations are strong enough to work but don't have a pH nearly as low as lemons (hers have a pH level of 3.5 to 3.9). I'm a huge fan of her salicylic acid treatment. Obviously you should still wear sunscreen if you're using these in the daytime (Paula's Choice recommends an SPF of 25 or higher). If you use another AHA that you're really happy with, let me know. I'd love to hear about it!

Monday, 4 June 2018

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Truth behind Celebrity Skin care



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